That rhythmic click-pause-click coming from behind your fridge isn’t random, and it isn’t something to wait out; a compressor that keeps attempting to start and shutting itself back off is telling you something specific, and the pattern of the clicking is your first real clue. In this guide, we fix the LG refrigerator compressor clicking on and off repeatedly with easy steps.
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What the Clicking Sound Actually Is
That click is almost always coming from a small component called the start relay, mounted on the side of the compressor itself, or from the compressor’s built-in overload protector. Both are electrical parts designed to protect the compressor motor: the relay helps the compressor’s start winding kick in for that first surge of torque, and the overload protector trips to cut power if the motor draws too much current or runs too hot.
When you hear a single click followed by the compressor humming and running normally, that’s usually just the relay doing its job correctly. The problem version, the one that brought you here, is a click, a few seconds of silence or a faint hum, then another click, repeating in a loop without the compressor ever settling into a steady run. That repeating pattern means something in the start circuit is either failing outright or the compressor is starting under conditions it can’t sustain, and the overload protector keeps kicking it back off as a safety measure.
What technicians actually check first: before touching anything electrical, I put a hand on the compressor housing itself. If it’s hot to the touch, that changes the diagnosis; a hot compressor tripping its overload protector repeatedly is often a heat-dissipation problem (dirty condenser coils, blocked airflow, an overworked compressor) rather than a relay that’s simply failed. A cold or barely warm compressor doing the same clicking points more toward an electrical component failure than a heat issue.
Short-Cycling vs. Single Click: Why the Pattern Matters
Not all repeated clicking is the same fault, and the interval between clicks tells you something.
Rapid clicking, several times a minute, almost machine-gun fast, usually points to a relay that’s physically failing internally, chattering rather than making a clean connection. Slower clicking, with 30 seconds to a couple of minutes between attempts, is more consistent with the overload protector cycling: the compressor tries to start, draws too much current, or runs too hot, the protector trips, it cools down, and the cycle repeats. That slower pattern is the one most often tied to a heat or load problem rather than a purely electrical component failure.
There’s also a timing clue worth noting: clicking that starts right when the compressor should kick in after the defrost cycle ends, versus clicking that happens at random points during normal operation, can point technicians toward different parts of the start circuit. This distinction matters more for diagnosis than most homeowners realize, and it’s exactly the kind of detail that gets lost when people describe the sound generically as “it keeps clicking.”
The Most Common Cause: Start Relay or Overload Protector Issues
On most LG refrigerators, including common bottom-freezer models like the LFXS-series and top-freezer units, the start relay and overload protector are typically combined into a single small black component that plugs directly onto pins on the side of the compressor, often referred to as a relay-overload assembly.
This component has a limited lifespan and is one of the more frequently failing parts in a refrigerator’s electrical system, partly because it handles a meaningful current surge every single time the compressor cycles on, which happens dozens of times a day over years of operation. When it starts to fail, repeated clicking without a successful start is the classic symptom; the relay either can’t make a clean connection to engage the start winding, or the overload protector has become oversensitive and trips before the compressor gets a real chance to run.
Voltage and Power Supply Problems That Mimic Compressor Failure
Before assuming a failed component inside the fridge, it’s worth ruling out something upstream: the electrical supply to the unit itself.
A compressor that’s receiving low voltage from a loose outlet connection, an overloaded circuit shared with other high-draw appliances, or aging household wiring can struggle to complete its start cycle and trip the overload protector in a pattern that looks identical to a failing relay. This is more common than people expect in kitchens where the refrigerator shares a circuit with a microwave or other high-draw appliance, especially in older homes.
A question a technician always asks that homeowners rarely think to check themselves: “Does the clicking happen more when other large appliances are running, or does it happen the same regardless?” If clicking gets noticeably worse when the AC, an oven, or another major appliance kicks on, that’s a strong signal pointing toward a voltage or circuit-loading issue rather than a failing part inside the refrigerator.
When It’s the Compressor Itself Failing
Less commonly, but still worth knowing, the compressor’s internal windings can develop a short or open circuit that causes it to draw excessive current the moment it attempts to start, tripping the overload protector almost instantly every time.
This is harder for a homeowner to distinguish from a simple relay failure just by sound. Still, there’s one meaningful difference: a failing relay or overload component can sometimes be swapped for a low parts cost. In contrast, a genuine internal compressor winding failure typically means replacing the compressor itself, a repair involving refrigerant handling that isn’t a DIY job on a sealed system.
A detail that determines whether this repair is worth it versus replacing the unit: compressor age and refrigerator age together matter more than most articles mention. A relay/overload failure on a refrigerator under 6-8 years old is almost always worth fixing; it’s a low-cost part. But a genuine compressor failure on a refrigerator already past the 10-year mark often isn’t worth the labor and refrigerant-handling cost relative to replacing the unit, especially with efficiency gains on newer models factored in.
Symptoms That Tell You This Is Urgent vs. Watch-and-Wait
Repeated clicking with no successful compressor start means your refrigerator isn’t cooling at all during those cycles, which makes this a time-sensitive symptom rather than one to monitor casually.
If you’re also noticing the interior temperature climbing, condensation building up inside the cabinet, or food starting to feel less cold than usual, that confirms the compressor isn’t completing enough successful run cycles to maintain temperature. Treat this as urgent and move toward diagnosis or a repair call promptly, since perishable food loss can outpace the cost of the repair itself. If the fridge is still holding temperature normally and the clicking is intermittent rather than constant, you have a bit more room to investigate the cause before it fully fails, though it’s still worth addressing rather than ignoring.
👉 LG Refrigerator Not Cooling, Full Symptom Guide
Comparison Table: Clicking Patterns and Likely Causes
| Clicking Pattern | Compressor Temperature | Likely Cause | Urgency |
| Rapid, several times per minute | Cool to slightly warm | Failing start relay (chattering contacts) | Moderate, address soon |
| Slow, 30 sec–2 min between clicks | Hot to the touch | Overload protector tripping (heat/load issue) | Moderate, check coils/airflow first |
| Clicking worsens with other appliances running. | Varies | Voltage drop / shared circuit overload | Check the circuit before assuming part failure. |
| Clicking with instant, consistent trips every attempt | Cool, doesn’t build heat | Possible internal compressor winding fault | High; get a technician diagnosis. |
FAQ: LG Refrigerator Compressor Clicking
1. Is it safe to keep using my refrigerator while the compressor is clicking like this?
Short-term, yes, but the fridge likely isn’t cooling properly during the failed start attempts. Monitor internal temperature closely and treat frequent or worsening clicking as a signal to get it diagnosed rather than something to live with long-term.
2. Can I test the start relay myself without professional tools?
Basic visual inspection (checking if it’s warm, loose, or has a burnt smell) is reasonable for most homeowners, but confirming an actual electrical fault typically requires a multimeter and some comfort working near the compressor’s electrical connections.
3. Why does the clicking seem louder or more frequent at night?
Kitchens are quieter at night, which makes a sound that was always present simply more noticeable; it’s rarely the case that clicking frequency itself changes based on time of day.
4. Could this be related to the refrigerator’s defrost cycle instead of the compressor?
It’s possible; some defrost-related components can produce clicking sounds, but those are typically a single click at defrost cycle transitions, not a repeating start-stop pattern. Persistent repeated clicking is far more consistent with a compressor start issue.
5. Will unplugging the fridge and plugging it back in fix the clicking?
Sometimes temporarily, if the issue is a marginal relay connection that resets briefly, but this isn’t a real fix; if the clicking returns within hours or days, the underlying component issue is still there.
6. How much does a start relay/overload assembly typically cost to replace?
The part itself is generally inexpensive compared to most refrigerator components, though total repair cost depends on labor if you’re not doing it yourself; it’s one of the more affordable compressor-related fixes when caught early.
7. Does dirty condenser coil buildup actually cause compressor clicking, or just poor cooling?
It can cause both; coils insulated with dust force the compressor to work harder and run hotter, which can trigger the overload protector to trip repeatedly even when the compressor and relay themselves are otherwise healthy.
Getting a Real Diagnosis
A clicking compressor is your refrigerator telling you something specific is wrong, not background noise to tune out, and the difference between a $30 part and a compressor replacement usually comes down to catching this early rather than waiting until the fridge stops cooling altogether. Pay attention to the pattern, check whether it’s heat- or voltage-related using the questions above, and bring in a technician if you’re not confident diagnosing the electrical components yourself.
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