This Whirlpool & Maytag front-load washer error code guide lists the codes with the meanings and owner steps given on the official Whirlpool and Maytag product help sites. It covers front-load washers only, not top-load, compact, combo, or stacked units. A code appears only if the official pages state what it means. For every code in the main table, the two brands’ pages say the same thing.
Last reviewed: November 13, 2026.
Table of Contents
Whirlpool & Maytag front-load washer error code table
| Code | What it means | What to check | When to contact the manufacturer’s service |
| LOC or LC | The control lock is on. | Touch and hold the Control Lock button for about 3 seconds; the display counts down 3, 2, 1, then shows LC or LoC. Some older models use a different button for this. While locked, you can still touch Start to pause the cycle or power to turn the washer off. | Not stated for this code. |
| dET | The dispenser does not detect a detergent cartridge. This appears on select models. | If you use single-load detergent doses, ignore the message. Otherwise, seat the cartridge correctly and push the drawer fully closed. | Not stated for this code. |
| Int | The cycle was paused or canceled. | The washer can take 20 to 30 minutes to stop spinning and drain, and it shows Int during that time. To clear the code, tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. If it still shows, unplug the washer or cut power to it for five minutes. | Not stated for this code. |
| rL or F34 (one shared entry) | The washer found items inside during the Clean Washer cycle. | Take everything out of the drum, then restart the Clean Washer cycle. | Not stated for this code. |
| Sud or Sd | The washer has too many suds and cannot spin water out well. It responds by pausing tumbling, adding water, and rinsing again, which may repeat several times. | Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent. Avoid “no splash” or “easy pour” liquid chlorine bleach, because its thickener can add suds. Use regular liquid bleach instead. Also make sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged, since poor draining can contribute to this code. | Not stated for this code. |
| F5 E2 | The door is not locking properly. | Make sure nothing blocks the door and that it closes all the way. Tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. | Not stated for this code. |
| F5 E3 | The door is not locking properly. | Check that the door is firmly closed and that nothing blocks the latch, such as clothing or shipping materials. Tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. The exact clearing method varies by model. | Not stated for this code. |
| F5 E4 | The washer ran three cycles in a row without the door being opened, or the load was too large for the chosen cycle. | If the load is too big, remove a few items and check the loading suggestions for that cycle. Tap Pause or Cancel two times to clear the code. Some sources also show a final power tap, but this wasn’t independently confirmed, so check your model’s method. | Not stated for this code. |
| F7 E1 | A motor speed sensing error. The motor cannot reach the right speed for the selected cycle. | Check that every shipping bolt has been removed and that the washer is not overloaded. Tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. | Not stated for this code. |
| F8 E1 or LO FL | The washer senses low water flow. | Make sure the household water supply is on and both the hot and cold valves are fully open. Check that the inlet hoses are not kinked and that no anti-flood device is restricting the line. Tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. | Not stated for this code. |
| F8 E2 | A problem with the dispenser system on select models. | Check that the detergent drawer or cartridge is not clogged with detergent. | If the code persists, contact the manufacturer or schedule service so a technician can diagnose the washer. |
| F9 E1 | The washer is taking longer than expected to drain, typically over eight minutes. | Make sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged and that it keeps its U-shaped form. Confirm the standpipe (drainpipe) height is between 39 and 96 inches (99 to 244 cm). Too many suds can also slow draining, so use HE detergent. | Not stated for this code. |
| Other F# E# codes | A code with no entry of its own. | Unplug the washer or cut power for five minutes, restore power, reselect the cycle, and press Start. | If the code persists, contact the manufacturer or schedule service online. |
| Err | The washer shows this if you try to change a cycle while it is running or start a cycle with the door open. | Reset the control by unplugging the washer for five minutes, then plugging it back in. | Not stated for this code. |
| F20 or FH | A water supply problem. | Checks include whether water pressure is under 10 psi, whether a flood-prevention device is shutting off water, and whether the hoses are loose. To clear the display, tap Pause/Cancel two times. | If the error remains after those checks, call for service. |
Service numbers printed on the official pages: Whirlpool 1-866-698-2538, Maytag 1-800-344-1274.
Quotable facts
- Whirlpool and Maytag both say the Int display can last 20 to 30 minutes while the washer finishes spinning down and draining.
- F9 E1 means draining took longer than expected, typically more than eight minutes.
- For F9 E1, the standpipe height should fall between 39 and 96 inches (99 to 244 cm).
- F7 E1 is a motor speed sensing error, and the owner checks that shipping bolts are removed and there is no overload.
- For F# E# codes without their own entry, both brands say to cut power for five minutes, restore it, reselect the cycle, and press Start.
FAQ
How do I clear Int, F5 E2, F7 E1, or F8 E1?
Several codes share one clearing pattern on the official pages: tap Pause or Cancel two times, then tap Power one time. That applies to Int, F5 E2, F5 E3, F7 E1, and F8 E1. For Int, if the code still shows afterward, cut power to the washer for five minutes. The exact clearing method can vary slightly by model.
What does “Sud” or “Sd” mean?
“Sud” or “SD” means too many suds are in the washer, so it cannot spin water out well. It responds by pausing tumbling, adding water, and rinsing again, which can repeat several times. Both brands advise using HE detergent, avoiding no-splash or easy-pour liquid chlorine bleach because its thickener can add suds, and making sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. Regular liquid bleach is the suggested alternative.
What is the difference between F7 E1 and F8 E2?
These two are easy to mix up. F7 E1 is a motor speed sensing error where the motor cannot reach the right speed for the cycle, so owners check that every shipping bolt is out and the load is not too big. F8 E2 is a dispenser system problem on select models, and the check is that the detergent drawer or cartridge is not clogged with detergent.
What does F9 E1 mean, and what can I check?
F9 E1 means draining took longer than expected, typically beyond eight minutes. Owners can confirm the drain hose is not kinked or clogged, that the hose keeps its U-shaped form, and that the standpipe height falls between 39 and 96 inches (99 to 244 cm). Too many suds can also slow draining, so the pages recommend HE detergent. If these checks do not help, contact the manufacturer’s service.
Codes and exact button sequences can vary slightly by model; this guide is based on current official Whirlpool and Maytag support information, but your appliance’s model-specific manual always has the final word.
Last reviewed: November 13, 2026.